Like every collection from Miuccia Prada, was different from every other collection yet this one was the most similar to the last season by being reduced to the bare necessities. It had more literal connotations (but that may not have been what Miuccia was getting at). None of the bags and jewellery that Prada is known for were shown today, but she kept to the winning thick soled shoes that started a craze a few seasons ago. The lavish 60’s apartment setting suggested a man at home was to be showed but it seemed the 60’s references were more evident in the model’s hairstyles, skinny ankle cut trouser-suits and coloured, wrinkled leather coats. The look seemed very Mod, single button blazers and some of the looks would not seem out of place in the 60’s but Miuccia brought in into the present with whimsy touches and niche necklines. The shirts gave off an unhinged feel with untucked hems and necks of the shirts open, the left collars peeking out of jumpers and jackets while the right was concealed.More 20th century references seen in the shirts were revealed as the collection went on, with coats open, a sort of ruched frill was added onto button fastenings. The cropped style of the trousers continued onto the Harrington jackets stopping at the waist and more surprisingly, jumpers being shorter at the back than they were in the front.
The main print used throughout the collection was a strict gingham of which its severity severely juxtaposed all else in each look. The openings of the jumpers were really unique, like a slit in the fabric so a straight edges cut the neck and went really well with the collars of the jackets. Lots and lots of colour was used here and it was a great sight to see contrasting from the clinical feel of SS13. A new vintage feel came directly from these coloured leather jackets as they were deliberately wrinkled but structured. The contrast collars added a nice touch to most coats and still stayed in an
Beautiful as the clothes may be and coherent as the collection is, Prada is known for reinvention and this collection certainly did not reflect that. All the while, it is a certainty that this collection will be bought in droves ( I’m coveting looks 5, 9, 35 & 40) but will those customers (and fashion press) be truly satisfied with reduction and repetition at Prada?
UPDATE: I think the untucked shirts and long cuffs are her witty interpretations of the streetstylers ( or some other obscure youth subculture) and the collection is a modern modernism that wittily refers to her signatures.
UPDATE 23/02/13: The last question was a really stupid question to ask of Prada because when has she not delivered? That’s a better question.
This collection NEEDS to be viewed in motion so check here for the whole show.
Selected looks from the collection: