I might start off in saying that this review is probably quite biased, since Shaun Samson is one of my favourite designers, with a distinct style that he continually updates to great effect. For AW13 there was an Americana vibe in the oversized, stripy, hockey v-neck pullovers and ear guards to ear muffs which nicely plays on the streetstyle trend of sportswear-influenced outfits. Some had long backs while others were cut at the waist. Layering these jumpers over simple white shirts was another clever way of appealing to the most seen people in fashion. As models swaggered down the runway, there was definitely a feel for music, mainly rap, evident in the oversized items and also the look-at-me puffers in reflective silver material. The superfluous accessories made it more humorous like the shawls covered in what looks like lyrics, pyjamas as outerwear and black back billed caps. It almost felt like a caricature of the typical rapper, gettin’ rich, doin’ my own thang , keepin’ it trill…
Most of the silhouettes were baggy and gorgeously so. His technical design came through as the pullovers were cut into the proper oversized fit; wide body, arm length which cannot be covering hands and a shoulder crease. Many times have I seen designers and brands try to do what he does best and hopelessly fail as they think oversized means drowning in fabric. The close colour palette of burgundy, greens, browns, white and greys aided the design aspect and the stripes were always in the right material and the right place. Army boots were instrumental in the rugged theme, with trousers/sweatpants tucked in and out of them.
This was Shaun Samson’s first collection outside the MAN showcase, a kind of incubator for the best up-and-coming London designers, and here he showed he could go it alone, produce the great collections he has been known for in the past while staying relevant and true to his aesthetic.
Selected looks below: