Here, the reduction continued from SS13 into AW13 but with an inspiration. Nicoll was looking more into,”Reduction, industrial essentials, ’80s No-Wave.” The post-punk aesthetic was abundant in the steel greys and blues, paired with the styling of slicked back or shaven hair and light beanie rolled to fit on top like a bowler’s hat. Their were a few oversized coats in their but overall the silhouettes betrayed the theme, with slim cuts most evident in suits and jumpsuits and baggy cuts in others.He might have tried to update the No-Wave for the 21st Century kids but authentic representation would maybe have been better. The post-punk look could have been executed with more conviction in sticking to one theme to make it a convincing collection. The Topman Design AW13 offering, which I have yet to post on was a better example of a coherent looks based around one idea, which made for a successful collection. Though in making it very wearable and desirable, he a lost a bit of the continuity in SS13. Some paint splatter was used to provide distraction from the main elements though that’s where should have focused on more. The last looks seemed to be there to wake the audience or more truthfully only satisfy buyers, in variation, but not the collection, as they were in bright oranges and reds. He designed essentials that most men would want in their wardrobes and it is sure to be that this collection will fly off the racks, but in sacrificing coherence he was left with a commercially viable but not creatively successful collection.
I think here Nicoll was trying to explore different avenues while still staying in the same vein of his smash hit début, but the structure and focus in that collection was needed here to make this one better.