This AW13 was disparate from what they usually show; more pared back compared to the ‘everything at once’ aesthetic that they are known for. Here mainly black and white was used despite a few additions of colour and embellishment. The set of back garbage bags referred to, said by Ed Meadham, as “throwing away the shit of last year”. OK! I found this quite surprising as they had positive reviews for their (womenswear, not menswear) collections in 2012 but I have not a clue what goes on in their minds. I found most of the collection feminine, the hair, the cuts, the clothes, with only a few looks that properly symbolised the ‘Man and Boy’ partnership they were going after. Femininity can be good, but they crossed the line a bit far here. I think the partnership could have been represented better than just by the models in ‘man’ and boy’ looks laying close to each other.
I guess the long hair and white tunics were supposed to show an air of innocence and youth, the white ribbon on the arm also (The film ‘The White Ribbon’ by Michael Haneke had the same kind of reference to the ribbon on the arm as keeping youth pure. Great film by the way), though I think that the abundance of black shrouded this a bit too much. Or the coats over longer white dresses could be the way of showing protection of innocence. I might be wrong in my observations. Some pieces were better, like the white waistcoat and shorts combo with striped leggings and sandals to promote the ‘Man and Boy’ idea.
Looking at the images, I think this is a show to be seen at the presentation(see fanzine with depiction on ‘Man and Boy’ on cover) and not on style.com. Then only the true meaning of the collection can become fully aware .