Edgy. Cool. Streetstyle (now an adjective as well as a noun in my vocabulary). That sums up Tokyo Fashion Week with the most innovative clothes out there and the craziest, still cool, attendants to fashion shows out there. It did finish ages ago but I thought that it , as Tokyo is ever, was totally relevant and also shockingly innovative so a recap is needed. I like how in Tokyo Fashion Week, the womenswear and menswear collections are presented at the same venue and time frame as it highlights the importance of fashion to both genders in Japan and how men are just as interested in fashion and take as many risks as the ladies. I would LOVE to go to Tokyo, to shop and people watch because it is such an inspiring city, with the best clothes! I’ve split the recap into 2, the next part will come some time soon…
Designed by Kunihiko Morinaga, this show was one of the highlights (a pun as you will soon realise) of the week with laser cut everything , cagey shapes + headpieces that emphasised silhouettes and reminded me of this 80s Jean Paul Gaultier jacket, though I doubt had any relation, and an ‘Alexander Wang’ moment with more meaning to the collection and the garments, leaving only the structure visible. It took the cake for me with the most interesting concept of all collections at TFW, that was pulled off with aplomb. This designer has quite a reputation, I found, for collections with meaning or message with his previous being ‘pixelated‘
This showing had less streetstyle influences than many other menswear collections at TFW, with the collection being a progression from the laid back (represented literally with the inclusion on fine silk) , streetwear enthusiast to the working sartor that is not afraid to take risks with his daily uniform, see the asymmetric strip of fabric and slim suit with small blazer, creating an illusion of high waisted pants. This collection had a clear narrative which stayed true throughout the collection, and mixed two ideas assertively.
- Ato SS13
Their SS13 show was set apart from the others I have recapped, mainly because of its simplicity. Hidenori Kumakiri used traditional cuts; in suits, dresses, shirts and trousers, with patterns that had quiet confidence. Pattern was included in every look, in at least one garment, apart from the last as these were not too aggressive they pulled the look together. Each look had a cohesive colour palette and reserved styling that made the clothes all look good together and also be imagined as separates to easily insert into one’s closet. Flip-flops in every look, with the easy vibe of the clothes, combined to create a day wear collection that is adaptable and cool. May I also note that in the menswear look with the bow and floral sleeves has a touch of femininity as a waist belt is usually used in womenswear. A little more proof for androgyny in men’s fashion! (hehe)
- Beautiful People SS13
This collection took influence from American fashion, but with a Japanese kawaii twist, just-right pattern mixing and intricate embroidery work. Some silhouettes had their own beginnings with billowy shapes and light jersey materials dominating. Though other looks had the ’60’s American wife at home/on holiday’ vibe going with shift dresses, block prints in silk and straw-coloured hats. The overall feel of the collection was slightly whimsical though utterly wearable.
- Everlasting Sprout SS13
Facetasm’s collection was made up of womenswear and menswear, though the menswear were, surprisingly, the looks my eyes were most drawn too, with more creativity applied in terms of design and styling. The womenswear referenced the look of a pared back Meadham Kirchoff girl, as there was no crazy extravagance and/or accessories to justify the hap hazard mixing of textiles and unusual silhouettes. Some end looks were better, however, the womenswear concept was not carried out well and therefore fell apart. The menswear, by constrast, was outstanding; in its use of Tokyo streetstyle ideology and layering. Layering was where this collection convinced me of its relevance. The mix of fabrics was always on point and the references to subcultures, like punk was plaid, could have become tiresome, what with all the 90’s going around, though it was fresh and exciting here. Facetasm needs to be menswear only.
- Facetasm SS13
This brand has a reputation for its cool sensibility and loyal following in and around Tokyo, though hasn’t gained success in other countries because of its niche. The SS13 collection was no different with many deconstructed garments and a staging like no other. The looks are partially obscured with what looks like a blank protest placard and a microphone stand, but here the overall aesthetic is what’s trying to be conveyed, not separate items. The shapes were boxy and oversized and garments without hems and thread blowing in the wind. Muted colours like white were in every look, either stained and kept bare, and the messy hair juxtaposed the ‘innocent angel’ feeling. Very fragile and quaint, this collection for full effect probably needs to be viewed in the showroom, and not on the internet.
- Fur Fur SS13
I couldn’t find much about this brand, though from a quick search on Google Images, it seems that most of their collections are themed and either use the same pattern/textile throughout the collection. Their SS13 offering was quite striking when I saw their 1st look image on style.com, and so I looked further. My inference from the quick search also was evident in this collection, with monochromatic textiles and the main material, jacquard with a geometric paisley pattern. You may think this is a set-up for a tedious and uncreative collection, though the use of different and very individual silhouettes which played to the prints strengths made it quite the opposite.Each look had pattern, bold and severe. On closer inspection, they are quite kitsch, with a sinister undertone, for example the rabbit as a target. These played within the theme, based around ‘the darkside issue’, to producea coherent and technical collection. Some pieces are availible to pre-order here
- Mint Designs SS13