Hi guys, how have you been? Well good, back to me.
I wanted to explore this idea of androgyny in fashion for men. I have pondered over this idea for quite a while now since seeing Ricardo Tisci send his Givenchy male models with skirts and also having a random daydream about how women sometimes dress masculinely and if that could switch without it looking utterly stupid. Rick Owens, I realise, basically owns the androgyny for men look but it was only him that was pushing the style in all his collections while others only may have used skirts once as a gimmick. More designers are now using this style now and I find it very interesting how different designers interpret it. Normally androgyny in fashion has been reserved for the select few stylish and/or naturally androgynous women out there who style their clothes very well to achieve the ‘boyish’ look, also described as la garçonne (Tilda as reference). I have now seen a few collections now (I think) that look to be on my wavelength, with some designers using usually feminine silhouettes to create new shapes for men and also taking style cues from women/femininity. One of these collections that I have seen recently (online of course, like any starting blogger) is from Siki Im and was shown during SS13’s NYFW.
Some of the looks I personally like…
Though the ones below illustrate the aesthetic more clearly with feminine silhouettes, t-shirt dresses, skirts and drop-crotches
However this look must have been inspired the local monastery.
I like this collection because of how it plays with women’s shapes and makes them more masculine and easier to wear. It does have quite a stark palette with only black, white and a tiny amount of prints used but that I think is to reign it in a little and to make sure that the collection appeals to men. If I were to get something from this collection it would probably be the whole first look because it’s quite simple and doesn’t stray to far like the last look (black wrap dress).
Rei Kawakubo’s Comme Des Garçons have also ‘played with masculinity’ for her SS13 collection, which was entitled ‘Poor King’ and represented different kings though different looks. The main aspect of the collection were the long length jackets that was sent out with every look. Some were made of jersey material, some tailored, some deconstructed, some luxurious, all different. They dictated what each look was about and how it should be seen.
I LOVE the japanese look with the traditional coat and shorts.
I can’t do this post without a tribute to Rick Owens. He mixes masculinity and femininity perfectly to come up with an entirely original aesthetic. I really do want one of his legendary biker jackets and and shoes that he’s wearing. (Together they would possibly cost £2000…Yikes!!)
all photos via style.com
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